Filip Goc

Hi @ggoto . You’re right - it does not show unless you’re an administrator. This is puzzling! The guide exists, and it’s published. This is some sort of bug. We’re communicating with our documentation hosting company to resolve the issue. —- In the meantime, here’s a direct link that works: JellyBOX 2 2.1.b.b, Easy with Heated Bed, 08. X Axis Install the X Assembly Thank you for the report! ~Filip

It’s right above where you asked the question. I hope that something is not hidden on your computer!

No problem. Congrats on finding it!

Hi @mrsrosenberg , You copy the file onto the SD card that came with your JellyBOX and plug in into the SD card slot on the top left of the printer. Then you Select ‘Print from SD’ using the rotary selection button. In general, printing from a ‘local’ storage like an SD card is more reliable than printing over USB, even though that’s possible as well using Cura Imade3d Edition. / I recommend posting to forum.imade3d.com for general questions - it’s a more responsive place. Good luck!

Hi @p_maidenitrt . If changing or fixing the LCD screen is not feasible, you can change any and all settings using so called ‘G-Codes’. You literary write (or copy paste) a gcode and click send over USB and the JellyBOX will respond. For example M851 Z-1 will set the Z probe offset to -1.

Hi @mitchmath7 . Do you have a heated bed with a PEI sheet? You could most likely sand the PEI down and it would work fine for most parts. You could definitely replace the PEI sheet and it would be, well, like new. Or do you have a cold bed with blue tape? You can sand the aluminum with a flat sanding tool (sandpaper on a piece of wood for one) and then re-apply the blue tape.

Hi @aviousavicado This is step 34 in the Install the X Assembly guide. I hope all else works great for you!

Hi @ghslibrarylady , Does your JellyBOX actually say ‘heater runaway’ or does it say ‘thermal runway?’ What’s the exact error message? (1) At any rate, this points to issues with the heating and/ or temperature reporting. (2) PS: Do you have a heated bed? Here’s a litttle write up on Thermal Runaway issues on our forum: https://forum.imade3d.com/t/what-is-the-dreaded-thermal-runaway-error/554 Let me know how the troubleshooting goes. Best, ~FIlip

Indeed! Everyone: insert the retaining clip under the black collet right now. Thanks to @ysopex!

That is a great point @dnewhall !

Indeed, that would make the docs much easier to navigate. It’s a time consuming process (in this documentation system it would mean literary hundreds of manual links), but it may well be worth it.

This step specifies to use an “M3 set screw”. There’s only one set screw, holding the cartridge. It is possible it came pre-inserted into the heatblock. (There’s another M3x5 button head screw used later to hold the wires. This can be seen about two steps after this one. ) There’s only one of each - one button head and one set screw. Thanks for the question @jtaylor.

Oh yes it is! The edge of the silicone heater pad is just silicone. You can trim a few mm @jtaylor.

These are M3x10 socket heads. Thanks for pointing out the omission @jtaylor.

@leanne I see. Let me guess. Your USB extension cable does not have integrated threads. In that case, use M3x16 and a nut or a locknut. There should be enough material in the ‘spare parts’ baggie for you to not have to pause the build. If you have JellyBOX Original, you may need to use even longer screws. Does this work?

I really should make the development of this one piece into a blog post. It’s a true exercise in simplification. This is a version five I believe.

This one really makes a difference! Especially the shortened back, so that as you sit the JellyBOX 2 down, it’s the felt that hits the ground first even though the printer naturally tilts backwards.

Hi @srg. In older JellyBOX versions, the screw that goes through the spring (as seen in step 8) screws into an M3 nut that’s in the yoke. In newer JellyBOX versions, the M3 nut is replaces with a built-in M3 insert.

Hi @cassiejanda . Technically, both are correct - so either way you should be ok.

You need 4 wires if you are using a heated be, while you only need two wires if you have a cold bed. The confusion arose from the fact that at some point we started giving everyone 4 wires so that future upgrade to the heated bed would be easier.

You _most likely_ have 4 wires, so plug those in as you can see in picture 15.

Thanks for the question.