Introduction
This is a two part process
PART ONE: You will physically move the sensor - the Z probe - into a position in which it can sense the electromagnetic field of the aluminum built plate.
PART TWO: You will fine tune the 1st layer height by adjusting the "Z Probe Offset" via the LCD controller.
Background
When you print, it is imperative that the model - the object you're printing - is stuck to the build plate; only to be peeled off once the print is finished.
For this, the printer needs to be able to repeatedly and precisely position the nozzle very close to the build plate so that the filament gets stuck to it as it's being extruded.
Proximity sensor is a switch that becomes engaged when it comes to a specific distance from a piece of metal.
In Jellybox, the proximity sensor, also known as Z-probe, plays the role of z endstop for Jellybox.
It senses the magnetic field of the build plate and thus determines the z homing position - just like simple mechanical switches determine the x and y homing positions.
This means by adjusting the z probe, we can change the z homing position and thus also the first layer height.
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2.5 mm M3 hex key
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one miniature zip tie or a leftover from a miniature zip tie
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some blue tape
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a piece of an ordinary paper
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Turn the z lead screw with your bare hand until the nozzle is lightly touching the build plate.
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A proven way to do this is by touch: when you can't move the paper freely back-and-forth that's when the nozzle is touching the plate.
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You don't have to worry about being crazy precise. The important thing is that you're consistent. Just get a feel for the paper. In a few calibration cycles, you'll be a master.
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Z Probe Offset?
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Z Probe Offset adjusts at what height the printer starts printing in reference to the Z homing position.
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The Z homing position is equivalent to the Z probe's sensing distance in our case :-)
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We will print something, analyze the 1st layer, and use the Z Probe Offset to digitally adjust the 1st layer height until the filament is nicely squished and sticking to the build platform.
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The general procedure is simply to start printing anything, and lower the nozzle if it's too high and raise the nozzle if it's too low. That's all there is to it.
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Preheat the nozzle to 210 ℃ for PLA
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Load the filament
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Head over to the Load and Unload Filament Guide if you haven't done this before.
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Repeat the print - observe - adjust Z probe offset - print procedure as many times as necessary.
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What you're looking for is a moderately squished first layer with no visible gaps between parallel lines throughout the first layer.
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Squishing the first layer more will get you a better adhesion while making the first layer slightly oversized, and with visible artifacts.
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Squishing the first layer less will get you a more 'precise' print, but with a higher risk or the object lifting and warping.
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Tip: Blue tape stops sticking after a few prints. Replace the affected area as needed.
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Tip: Buff the blue tape using some medium grit sandpaper. The sandpaper treatment does wonders - we’ve been able to even hold even ABS quite well. (Still we do NOT recommend printing ABS. Don't do it. The fumes are not good for your health.)
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Tip: Another way to get the prints to stick well to the tape is to clean the tape with denatured alcohol. Works wonders as suggested by Joel at https://forum.imade3d.com/t/pre-print-ch...
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