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  1. 4" zip ties
    • 4" zip ties

    • Wire comb

  2. Align the wire comb with the corresponding annotations (ie. filament fan, heat block, etc.), and secure it with a zip tie. Align the wire comb with the corresponding annotations (ie. filament fan, heat block, etc.), and secure it with a zip tie.
    • Align the wire comb with the corresponding annotations (ie. filament fan, heat block, etc.), and secure it with a zip tie.

  3. Goal: pre-install a 4" zip tie into every pair of holes that is 'connected' with an etching. (Your etching may look more like a RECTANGLE rather than lines.) That's 18 zip ties :-)
    • Goal: pre-install a 4" zip tie into every pair of holes that is 'connected' with an etching.

    • (Your etching may look more like a RECTANGLE rather than lines.)

    • That's 18 zip ties :-)

    • You should know that the record time to install all 18 (!) zip ties is under 3 minutes by Shawn and Stephanie from Baltimore.

  4. Tip: It is more efficient to first drop all the zip ties in all the holes, and then pull them all back at once! Energize. Tip: There are two groups of 3 holes around the middle that fit two zip ties - the middle hole is shared. Tip: There are two groups of 3 holes around the middle that fit two zip ties - the middle hole is shared.
    • Tip: It is more efficient to first drop all the zip ties in all the holes, and then pull them all back at once! Energize.

    • Tip: There are two groups of 3 holes around the middle that fit two zip ties - the middle hole is shared.

  5. Acrylic Arduino spacer Arduino + RAMPS combo (affectionately known as sandwich)
    • Acrylic Arduino spacer

    • Arduino + RAMPS combo (affectionately known as sandwich)

  6. Put the arduino on top of the arduino spacer.
    • Put the arduino on top of the arduino spacer.

    • There are three holes that will align.

  7. Attach the arduino with the arduino spacer to the inner back.
    • Attach the arduino with the arduino spacer to the inner back.

    • Gently tighten the screws to avoid damaging the board.

    • The holes are tapped so you do not need much force. You only need to hold it in place against gravity. No stresses here.

    • M3x25 socket head screws

    • Here's an animation of the process if you desire more guidance https://youtu.be/ohM_tJHCBXM

  8. The Goal. The Goal.
    • The Goal.

  9. Disconnect the power supply connector from the rest of the power wire harness. Disconnect the power supply connector from the rest of the power wire harness.
    • Disconnect the power supply connector from the rest of the power wire harness.

  10. Remove the nut and spring washer from the connector.
    • Remove the nut and spring washer from the connector.

  11. Insert the connector into the frame from the outside. Secure with the spring washer and the nut.
    • Insert the connector into the frame from the outside.

    • Secure with the spring washer and the nut.

  12. Remove one nut from the front of the power switch.
    • Remove one nut from the front of the power switch.

  13. Place the switch into the "Big Friendly Button" hole from the inside.
    • Place the switch into the "Big Friendly Button" hole from the inside.

    • Secure with the nut.

    • Commonly, switches are installed so that

    • bottom position = off

    • top position = on

  14. Re-attach the positive terminal to the switch.
    • Re-attach the positive terminal to the switch.

    • Re-connect the negative spade connector.

  15. Minus MUST connect to minus and plus MUST connect to plus or you WILL destroy your board and will need to buy a replacement.
    • Minus MUST connect to minus and plus MUST connect to plus or you WILL destroy your board and will need to buy a replacement.

    • Read the wire labels. Red wire is always plus. Black wire is always minus.

    • You can find little pluses and minuses on the RAMPS board next to the connector.

  16. Make sure to properly insert the power wires into the green RAMPS power connector, and tigten them very well. If you leave this connection loose, it may lead to excessive contact oxidation, excessive resistance, and eventually to a melted connector or fire. The wire ends (crimps, ferrules) are thick; you need to fully open the connector.
    • Make sure to properly insert the power wires into the green RAMPS power connector, and tigten them very well. If you leave this connection loose, it may lead to excessive contact oxidation, excessive resistance, and eventually to a melted connector or fire.

    • The wire ends (crimps, ferrules) are thick; you need to fully open the connector.

    • fully open :-)

    • not fully open :-(

  17. Tidy up with 4'' zip ties.
    • Tidy up with 4'' zip ties.

    • You can tighten these only lightly by hand.

  18. USB extension cable
    • USB extension cable

    • M3x12 bolts (2)

    • M3 serrated washers (2)

  19. M3x12 screws and serrated washers Commonly, USB connectors (type B) are installed facing upwards.
    • M3x12 screws and serrated washers

    • Commonly, USB connectors (type B) are installed facing upwards.

  20. Yes, the USB cable is too long. Deal with it. Make a tidy loop and attach it to the inner back.
    • Yes, the USB cable is too long. Deal with it. Make a tidy loop and attach it to the inner back.

    • 4'' zip tie

  21. Small aluminum heat sinks (4)
    • Small aluminum heat sinks (4)

    • Stepper drivers (4)

    • The drivers come pre-installed on the RAMPS board, you don't need to do anything.

  22. Attach the heatsinks onto the black square chips on each driver. The heatsink ribs should be vertical. This way the heat can escape upward more efficiently. The heat sinks must not touch any of the contacts around the drivers. Or you may burn your drivers.
    • Attach the heatsinks onto the black square chips on each driver.

    • The heatsink ribs should be vertical. This way the heat can escape upward more efficiently.

    • The heat sinks must not touch any of the contacts around the drivers. Or you may burn your drivers.

    • The heatsinks are optional but will increase the longevity of the printer. Drivers like to keep their cool.

    • Note: there was a limited edition of JellyBOX experimenting with 32 bit drivers; these do not require heat sinks. Thus, if you haven't got any heat sinks, do not despair and simply move on.

Finish Line

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Filip Goc

Member since: 01/14/2016

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4 Comments

I am confused about the pictures in Step 8, 15, 16, and 17.

The first picture in step 8 has four wires connected to the RAMPS, and the second picture has two.

On step 15, four wires are connected to the RAMPS.

On step 16, there are two wires in the bottom two RAMPs connectors and in step 17, there are two wires connected in the top two.

Which is correct? Please help! Thanks.

Cassie Janda - Reply

Hi @cassiejanda . Technically, both are correct - so either way you should be ok.

You need 4 wires if you are using a heated be, while you only need two wires if you have a cold bed. The confusion arose from the fact that at some point we started giving everyone 4 wires so that future upgrade to the heated bed would be easier.

You _most likely_ have 4 wires, so plug those in as you can see in picture 15.

Thanks for the question.

Filip Goc -

M3 x 12 srews do not hold usb in step 19. Please help.

Leanne Brennan - Reply

@leanne I see. Let me guess. Your USB extension cable does not have integrated threads. In that case, use M3x16 and a nut or a locknut. There should be enough material in the ‘spare parts’ baggie for you to not have to pause the build. If you have JellyBOX Original, you may need to use even longer screws. Does this work?

Filip Goc - Reply

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