Assemble the X Assembly

Take out both set screws (i.e., two) out of the pulley.

(You can find the pulley in the hardware box - left bottom corner)

Put a single, small drop of thread lock onto the set screw thread.

Most people use want to use way too much threadlock. Really, little is enough.

Let the threadlock spread the thread lock into the thread. Soak excess with a paper towel if necessary.

Tip: Keep the set screw on the hex key for easy manipulation.

One of the set screws may be shorter than the other one.

That's nice, but not necessary. If your two set screws are identical, don't worry about it.

Re-insert both set screws into the pulley.

Slide the X pulley onto the X motor shaft.

The set screws in the pulley should be on the side away from the motor.

(This is the opposite of the Y motor pulley!)

Slide the pulley as far away from the motor as you can.

The X pulley will be extending about 3mm (0.12'') beyond the top of the X motor shaft.

The set screws should still fully grip the motor shaft.

Tighten the longer set screw against the FLAT side of the motor shaft

The X motor pulley alignment is very different from Y motor pulley. Follow the instructions closely.

Tighten the set screws well. We do not want these to be loose.

Tightening well does not mean tightening with unrestrained force. You can strip the set screw threads or its hex head if you use too much force.

M3x16 screws (4)

M3 serrated washers (4)

Align the X motor with the front 'bird' acrylic piece.

Make sure the X motor connector is facing upwards.

Follow the instructions etched on the X assembly: "X Motor adjoins right here to this side", and adjoin the motor.

Secure the X motor with the M3x16 screws and serrated washers.

Use the revered "cross-tightening" technique for proper alignment and force distribution.

Two idler bearing halves

M3x25 socket head screw

4mm hex spacer (That's the shorter one of the two spacers in JellyBOX!)

Tighten well.

Tip: The IMADE3D wrench has a special slot just for the spacers as they are slightly smaller than regular M3 nuts.

Place an M3 regular washer on either side of the acrylic.

Secure with an M3 nylock.

Tighten well, but careful not to crack the acrylic.

Make sure the idler bearings are on the back side (the one with smooth rods, linear bearings, and the motor pulley).

Thread the X Belt through the X carriage, around the X motor pulley, and around the X idler.

(Is this description useless? Maybe.)

Secure the loop with 4'' zip tie directly below the upper post.

The belt teeth should lock into each other.

Tighten well.

Thread the belt around the idler and through the left side of the x carriage.

(Well, the right side, but we are looking from behind).

Hold with a loose 4'' zip tie loop.

(The belt teeth are not locking into each other; that's ok.)

Pull on the belt with moderate force, and tighten the loop.

This is a good job for two. Have an assistant pull the belt while you focus on the zip tie.

Add a 2nd zip tie to make sure the loop is secure.

Tighten well.

The belt can be tighter or a bit looser at this point. (Listen for the sound in the video.)

We'll make it tune the tension in the next steps.

Make a loose 4'' zip tie loop around the belt on the right side. This is the tensioning mechanism.

Overachiever's Tip: If it pleases your aesthetic sense, you can put the zip tie head on the inside of the X carriage instead. Potential future re-tightening will be a bit less comfortable, but it works as well. Make sure to have the zip tie tail exit towards the front then.

Make the belt tighter by tightening this zip tie.

There's a slot for 2nd zip tie if one is not enough to get the belt tight. (Optional; as needed.)

When you're done, you can clip the zip tie, but not fully. Make sure to leave enough so you can still grab it with vise grip for potential re-tightening.

How tight is right?

We got the science: the belt should emit a moderately high pitch sound when plucked.

You can always tweak the tension once you're printing.

In general, a bit too tight is better than a bit too loose.

Is everything is moving smoothly?

Is the X carriage facing the right way?

Connect the shroud and the mount with a plastite screw.

Attach a small 30mm filament fan to the shroud with four plastite screws.

Pay attention to the orientation of the fan cable.

M3x12 screw

M3 regular washer

M3 regular nut

Place the wire from the fan in the slot running along the bottom of the carriage.

Insert a regular M3 nut into a slot on the left side of the X carriage.

Attach the Left Fan to the X Carriage with an M3x12 screw and a regular M3 washer.

M3x16 screw (2)

M3 nylock (2)

M3 regular washer (2)

☟

Insert a regular M3 nut into a slot on the right side of the X carriage.

Attach the Z probe to the X Carriage with an M3x16 screw and a regular M3 washer.

Don't worry too much about how high your proximity sensor is. We'll adjust that later.

Done!

This is what should be in front of your eyes.

There are two stand-offs attached to the x wire harness.

Short stand-off.

Long stand-off.

"Wire" or "cable harness" is simply an industry term for an assembly of wires.

Attach the short stand-off to the X carriage.

M3 nylon locknut (1)

M3 regular washer (2)

M3x45 bolt (1)

Attach the long stand-off to the acrylic.

M3 nylon locknut (1)

M3 regular washer (2)

M3x60 bolt (1)

Color and order of the wires can be different from the ones in the picture.

Thread the X motor wire through the acrylic.

4'' zip tie

You must shape the wire into an "S".

This protects the connector from side tension, and makes sure the wires are out of the way all along the Z axis.

X endstop

Two M2x16 screws and two M2 nuts.

Secure the wire with a 4'' zip tie.

This is a good time to train HOWTO insert and remove the extruder.

For more detailed instructions, follow the " Insert the Extruder " guide.

Do not pinch the hotend wires. Make sure they go underneath the x carriage.