Introduction
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JellyBOX uses a genuine E3D-Lite6 HotEnd with our own heat block upgrade for faster and easier printing.
E3D hotends are the most popular hotends in the world - and the most 'cloned' ones, too. We use only genuine E3D parts manufactured in Great Britain - the quality is miles ahead of the atrocious Chinese clones - and our own parts that we manufacture in the Czech Republic to our own quality standards.
Parts of this guide are assimilated from E3D's instructions (the 'old' documentation).
PS: The British use 'aluminium' for 'aluminum' = it's the same thing :-)
Parts Used
Metal Parts
1 x Stainless Heatsink (Contains embedded PTFE tube coupling (Black Plastic Collet)
pre-fitted on top)
1 x Custom 20mm Heat Block
1 x Long Volcano Style Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)
Electronics
1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor
1 x 12v Heater Cartridge
(the heater cartridge already has pre-crimped wires including parts of thermistor
wires)
2 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins
Fixings
1 x M3x3 socket buttonhead screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor. This is the
teeny tiny screw.
1 x M3 set screw to fix the heat element
Misc
1 x Hotend Sleeve (fiberglass + red silicone)
1 x PTFE tubing
What you need
- Vise grip OR ?? 16mm Spanner, or medium sized adjustable spanner capable of
16mm.
- IMADE3D wrench OR 7mm Spanner OR Nut Driver.
- M2.5 Hex Key- that's the middle sized one
- Snips, Wire Cutters
- Razor sharp knife. 'X-acto' or 'Stanley' types are ideal. Katana may or may not
be ok.
Warnings - Please Read!
You are dealing with high temperatures - the HotEnd gets hot, and may be off
your printer when you do the initial tightening. If you touch it, you will get
burned!
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Secure the thermistor in place with the buttonhead screw.
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Don't overtighten - you don't want to damage the insulation and short-circuit the thermistor.
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Visually check that the sleeving is insulating the legs of the thermistor right down to the bead.
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If the legs make electrical contact with the block or each other your temperature readings will be incorrect and you risk overheating.
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The PTFE tubing is mandatory, you must use the tubing or the HotEnd will not function properly.
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The tubing should be inserted from the top of the now assembled hotend and pushed as far down into the hotend as possible at all times.
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The end of the tubing that is inserted into the hotend must be cut cleanly and squarely with a razor.
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To release the tubing from the heatsink simply press down on the black collet in the top of heatsink while pulling on the tubing.
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The PTFE guides the filament from the cold side of the heatsink right down into the hot nozzle. For it to do so effectively it must butt up against the nozzle squarely and be positively secured in that position.
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Cut the PTFE squarely against the stainless heatsink with a razor blade, x-acto knife, or other very sharp cutting instrument.
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Unscrew the nozzle about 1/2 of a turn (180 degrees) to create a small gap between the nozzle and the heatblock.
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The PTFE should be sticking out on the top and not moving in any direction.
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The black collet should be all the way up.
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None of the heatshrink should ever touch the heatblock. Only the fiberglass sleeving can withstand printing temperatures.
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There should still be a small gap between the nozzle and the heatblock. The gap can be smaller than the one in the picture, but some gap must be there.
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Before you can use your hotend, you have to perform a Hot Tightening' procedure. Hot tightening is essential to sealing the nozzle and heatsink together to ensure that molten plastic cannot leak out of the hotend in use.
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A) If this is the first time you're assembling the hotend, you're done for now! You'll do the hot tightening once you have an otherwise functioning JellyBOX.
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B) If you already have some JellyBOX built, then you may go ahead and follow the Hot-Tightening Guide.
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What's Next?
Get back to the ⇤ Makers Kit Build Flow and continue with the next guide.
What's Next?
Get back to the ⇤ Makers Kit Build Flow and continue with the next guide.