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Introduction

The heart of the printer, the Extruder is responsible for melting filament and extruding it with high precision out of a small orifice (hole) in the nozzle.

  1. Hotend shroud
    • Hotend shroud

    • Hotend fan cover

    • Hotend fan

    • Plastite screws (super smart screws specifically designed not to get loose in plastic) (4)

  2. Sandwich the fan shroud with the fan and the fan cover.
    • Sandwich the fan shroud with the fan and the fan cover.

    • Make sure the LED strip is at the bottom as shown.

    • Plastite screws.

  3. Insert the hotend, making sure the wires are going towards the back  -  away from the fan. If you haven't assembled your HotEnd, simply use the heatsink alone for now, and augment your extruder later.
    • Insert the hotend, making sure the wires are going towards the back - away from the fan.

    • If you haven't assembled your HotEnd, simply use the heatsink alone for now, and augment your extruder later.

    • M3x25 screws

    • M3 washers

  4. Drop two M3 nuts into slots in the extruder base.
    • Drop two M3 nuts into slots in the extruder base.

  5. Attach the hotend assembly to the extruder plate.
    • Attach the hotend assembly to the extruder plate.

    • Don’t over tighten! As soon as you can't easily rotate the hotend by hand, you have plenty of holding power.

  6. Use M3x10 screws and M3 serrated washer to attach the E motor. Make sure the motor connector is facing UP.
    • Use M3x10 screws and M3 serrated washer to attach the E motor.

    • Make sure the motor connector is facing UP.

    • (Again). Do not over tighten. You will compromise the plastic.

  7. You will find all the needed part in a packet alongside your extruder.
    • You will find all the needed part in a packet alongside your extruder.

    • Oversized M3 Washer

    • Spring. (Your spring may look different! That's ok. Recent JellyBOXes use a longer, thinner spring.)

    • Feeder Yoke

    • Feeder Arm

    • Feeder Latch

    • 623Z Bearing

  8. M3x35 (only one)
    • M3x35 (only one)

    • M3 oversized washer

    • Spring

    • M3 nut

  9. Attach the bearing to the yolk with M3x14 screw.
    • Attach the bearing to the yolk with M3x14 screw.

    • The M3x14 screw goes right into the plastic. Do not over tighten. The bearing should spin, and the yoke should move move back and forth freely.

  10. Attach the feeder latch with an M3x14. Do not over tighten.
    • Attach the feeder latch with an M3x14. Do not over tighten.

    • Checkpoint: the latch should be loose.

  11. Attach the feeder arm with m3x30 and M3 serrated washer. Do not overtighten. The feeder arm should be able to move.
    • Attach the feeder arm with m3x30 and M3 serrated washer. Do not overtighten. The feeder arm should be able to move.

  12. White PTFE tube (teflon)
    • White PTFE tube (teflon)

    • A piece of filament - some is included in your kit

    • Drive gear (hobbed gear, hob screw)

    • Locking set screw (with a red or blue nylon patch)

  13. Install the PTFE tube at the top of the extruder.
    • Install the PTFE tube at the top of the extruder.

    • There's an inner retention mechanism, so you shouldn't need to worry about the PTFE getting out.

  14. There may be a set screw preinstalled in the drive gear. Verify that the screw has the nylon locking patch!
    • There may be a set screw preinstalled in the drive gear. Verify that the screw has the nylon locking patch!

    • If needed, replace the preinstalled set screw with the locking one.

    • This is the last step in assembling the EXTRUDER.

    • Follow the video :-) and note that the audio is useful.

    • Position the set screw CLOSE to the motor and NOT away from the motor as shown in the video. Disobey the video; it is is outdated. Thanks and sorry for this temporary suspension of clarity.

Finish Line

Filip Goc

Member since: 01/14/2016

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